Big Love To Steak

BLT Steak West Hollywood, CA 20 April 10
www.bltsteak.com
eat: Steak Sliders, Truffled Mac & Cheese, Popovers, Hanger Steak, Filet Mignon, Frites, Creamed Spinach, Jalepeno Mashed Potatoes
sip: Bourbon Sidecar, Dirty Grey Goose Martinis


Expectations have a profound effect on our experiences. When anticipations are high, the barometer of excellence is heightened as well. For instance, when a movie receives glowing reviews, I presume it is going to be a magnificent tour-de-force. After looking at an online photo of a potential suitor, I assume he'll be equally dashing in person. However, when these prospects fall short - the film is a flop, the date is a dud - the sting of disappointment is stronger than having had no hope at all. Conversely, when a situation has little promise, yet then exceeds my expectations, the outcome is surprising delight.

"Expect the worst. Hope for the best" This was the mantra that ran through my head the other night when I chose BLT Steak after my friends put me to the challenge of finding a "non-Mexican, close-to-home, non-frat boy, good food Happy Hour". To be frank, BLT Steak doesn't fit into my usual dining mold. It is located on the touristy Sunset Strip and it is part of a large, national restaurant conglomerate, BLT Restaurants, which in spite of it's high esteem, I have avoided due to my penchant for local, smaller establishments. However, I was intrigued by their 5 for $5 Happy Hour: a choice of 5 libations (red & white wine, beer, bubbly, cocktail) plus 5 yummy small plates each for a fiver.


As we enter the restaurant, the modern, sleek design feels corporate and cold, yet after a warm welcome by the hostess and bartender, we begin to feel more comfortable. The decor lends itself to a more civilized happy hour - one where you can eat and drink fabulously without breaking the bank. The seasonal cocktail is a Bourbon Sidecar, a twist on the original with Bourbon replacing Cognac as the main liquor. We nosh on Steak Sliders, aka mini Philly Cheesesteaks. They are a messy, yet tasty mound of thick chunks of steak, caramelized onions, and melted Gruyere. Sadly, the Fried Oysters with Pickled Cabbage are a disaster - dare I say that the oysters tasted dirty - but our palates are quickly saved by the divine Truffle Mac & Cheese with Bacon, a stellar, oozy version topped with a golden-brown, shredded Gruyere crust. Even the bar snacks, smoked almonds, paprika dusted-popcorn, and plump olives, are top-notch.


Turns out that happy hour is a mere taste of what BLT Steak has to offer. When I return two weeks later to watch a Lakers playoff game at the bar, my interest in BLT Steak blossoms into a full-blown crush. The romance begins when Andrew, our charming, attentive bartender, brings out an array of amuse-bouche goodies: a glass jar of chicken liver pâté, two grapefruit-size popovers, fresh butter, and sea salt (turns out this duo is a signature to all the BLT Steak restaurants). The intense, rust-hued pâté is wonderfully warm, iron-rich, and meaty which I prefer to other whipped versions. The popovers deserve to have their own post - heck, it's their photo, not the more apt picture of a steak, that I crowned atop this blog. They are a feat of baked wizardry; inflated orbs of airy, soft dough encased in a buttery crust that is reminiscent of Pillsbury Crescent Rolls (in a good way). Alone, the popovers are delectable. Slathered with butter and sprinkled with flakes of sea salt, they are simply naughty. Obviously, I'm not alone in my popover passion; a miniature recipe card is served with them to entice diners to recreate them at home.


In keeping true to traditional steakhouses, the steaks are served a la carte, letting the diner choose their sauces and sides. There is such love for the cow that on the back of the menu, a diagram depicts cuts of meat to the corresponding parts of the cow (i.e. round = backside) An educated eater is a happier eater, so I take a menu home to study my bovine anatomy. I opt for a Hanger Steak (a cut which hangs from the diaphragm) with horseradish sauce. It arrives in a venerable Staub cast iron pan adorned simply with roasted shallots. The steak is picture perfect: blackened on the outside and bloody red inside. This caramelized char is due to the super high temperature (1700 degrees!) at which the steak is broiled. It tastes even better than it looks; normally, I bring leftovers home from a steakhouse, but I devour every last bit of one of the best steaks I've ever had. Russel has the Filet Mignon, which is gorgeously teneder and plump.



In an effort to counteract the meatiness of the meal, we opt for two green sides. The first, Creamed Spinach is full of fresh spinach. I love how this version focuses on the spinach rather than the cream. Rather than have the greens drowning in a giant cream bath, it's as if the spinach has soaked up the cream and created a moist masterpiece. Next, Jalepeño Mashed Potatoes are a beautiful, yet unusual mint green (think Green Eggs and Ham). They are wonderfully whipped and buttery and the heat from the jalepeños adds a nice kick.



Andrew brings us Fries with Parmesan, Truffle Salt, and Lime Cilantro Aioli. One might think this could be a bad case of ingredient overkill, but somehow all the flavors harmonize deliciously. On their own, the double-fried fries would be stellar, but the extra accoutrements are a unique touch.


Next, Andrew brings us a surprise Molten Chocolate Cheesecake. Although we are stuffed, it is a sweet gesture that adds to the welcoming friendliness that has infused our meal. Essentially, the dessert is a gussied up sundae; the chocolate ice-cream like cake is drizzled with dark, melted chocolate and a dollop of vanilla ice cream rests on top. It's an appropriate end to our "haute comfort" meal.


Turns out BLT Steak IS my kind of restaurant. It can be what you want it to be: a celebratory dinner, an intimate bar meal, high-end bites for game viewing, or a refined happy hour. I have learned my lesson. Don't judge a book by it's cover. Don't stereotype. Don't assume. It's funny, looking through my old magazines, I realized that BLT Steak was listed as one of L.A. Magazine's 10 Best New Restaurants in 2009, but I must have ignored their listing due to my snooty aversion to anything non-local. Eat that piece of humble pie...you might like what you taste.

Deal Alert: Besides the great 5 for $5 Happy Hour, there is a nightly 3-course $50 Blackboard Menu which veers from the traditional steak menu and features seasonal fare.

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Reservoir Silver Lake 03 March 10
www.silverlakereservoir.com
eat: Roasted Beets, Spicy Mussels, Mahi-Mahi, Farro Salad, Purple Yams, Ice Cream
sip: "The Prisoner" Napa 2008

Last Saturday, my friend, Shanna, and I spontaneously decided to dine at Reservoir, a cozy, neighborhood spot in Silver Lake. Soaked from sheets of rain (yes, it DOES rain in LA), we entered the tiny space to find the chef, Gloria Felix, at the hostess stand. At first, I didn’t know who she was, but once I spotted her chef whites, I deduced, from my many years of costuming and eating out, that she must be the big cheese. This may sound ironic, but I love it when a chef steps out of the kitchen. Whether it’s Chrisophe Émé (Ortolan) describing his famous caviar egg dish table-side or Mark Gold (Eva) hopping between tables to greet guests, I find that a visible chef adds a welcome intimacy and individuality to the dining experience. It’s comfortable too - like suddenly the restaurant has been revamped as a relaxed dinner party amongst familiar family and friends. At Reservoir, the familial nature continues that night as I realize that I know both waiters personally, an added bonus to any meal.

Inside, the snug space is aesthetically pleasing; the copper bar glows warmly under soft lighting and the ceiling, made from thin planks of recycled redwood, creates a cozy, nautical vibe. Since it's a blustery, winter night, I whet my whistle with a glass of "The Prisoner", a bold, lusty blend of reds including Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. This Napa Valley gem is an old favorite of mine thanks to it's gorgeous ruby hue, it's luscious mouth-feel, and it's "big fruit" character that is thankfully void of jammy-ness.

We begin with a refreshing salad of Roasted Beets, Fried Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts, and Fresh Greens-the greens are a lovely surprise considering most beet salads are served sans greens, which leaves me craving lettuce the rest of the meal.




Following our waiter, Damien's, advice, we opt for Spicy Mussels with Grilled Ciabatta Bread. The mussels are plump, juicy, and clean while the saffron broth bursts with red-pepper flake heat. After soaking up all our bread in the liquid deliciousness, we seriously contemplate risking our dignity and drinking the rest of the broth from the bowl.
With frites and a green salad, this would be a marvelous meal on it's own.


Reservoir encourages the diner to be a culinary curator by giving you a choice of side (they call them setups) to be served with their main courses. We select the Farro, Currant, Broccoli Rabe, and Pine Nut Salad to accompany our Mahi Mahi with Red Curry Sauce. The salad, a who’s who of my favorite ingredients, is nutty and complex while the fish is perfectly cooked - crispy on the outside and tender and buttery inside. I rarely choose fish at restaurants, since I tend to cook it-and not the red meat I usually order-at home, but I will rethink my ordering approach after tasting this sublime fish.


We finish our savory meal with transcendent Roasted Purple Yams with Chives and Crème Fraiche. They arrive resembling prehistoric dinosaur eggs that had just hatched a vivid, violet filling. Run, don’t walk, to your nearest farmer’s market to scoop up these awesome tubers. When roasted, the crunchy skins are caramelized to a buttery crisp and the inside is dark, rich, and moist like a dense chocolate cake.


Though we were stuffed to the gills, we couldn’t resist the homemade ice cream - a trio of sesame, vanilla, and chocolate. The bitter, decadent chocolate won hands down; the sesame did live up to it’s name, yet we prefer it in seed form, and the vanilla was decent, but had a flavor that seemed oddly synthetic, like a vanilla-flavored vodka.

When Chef Gloria catches me photographing her food, she cheerfully agrees to pose for a picture, a proud artisan flaunting her edible craft. Then, as if we were old pals catching up, we chat about her culinary past and her excitement about Reservoir's one-year anniversary. Her enthusiasm is not only infectious - it infuses the food with delicious love. After training at such beloved L.A. establishments like Lucques, Grace, and A.O.C., it should come as no surprise that Gloria shines with her own spin on "Seasonal Rustic" cuisine.

Deal Alert: Happy Hour menu from 5-7pm includes $7-$12 dishes like Truffled Mac n' Cheese, Mahi Mahi Fish n' Chips, and a Burger as well as $4 beers and $5 glasses of wine.

Be Italian

Osteria Mozza Hollywood 4 Jan 10
www.mozza-la.com
eat: Grilled Octopus, Crostini di Anatra, Agnolotti Burro e Salvia, Bombolini
sip: Soave Classico Suavia 07

"Be Italian. Live today as if it may become your last". These words were passionately belted out by Fergie in the "Nine", the starlet-packed movie-musical based on Fellini and his assortment of often scantily-clad babes. The film is an orgy of Italian iconography - sporty Alfa-Romeo convertibles, sensual women, high fashion, breathtaking villages perched on cliffs, and the architectural wonders of Roma - that transports the viewer to 1960‘s Italy. Dining at Osteria Mozza, a Los Angeles gem co-owned by powerhouses Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich, has a similar effect; the magnificent food, attentive service, and bustling atmosphere combine to create a dreamland of Italian delicacies. Everything is bellisima - the soft lighting, the fresh ingredients, the tantalizing smells of braised meat and pungent garlic, even our fellow diners are beautiful.

In my opinion, a seat at the bar is the best view in the house. The traditional, zinc bar has been perfectly art directed with an array of rustic treats - a bundle of lavender sprigs, platters of roast tomatoes and leeks, white pumpkins, and an adorable menagerie of brass ducks. Behind the bar, aproned staff prepare plates of anitpasti; watching them slice a plump prosciutto is food porn, Italian style. After seeking ordering advice from our friendly & knowledgeable waitress, Julie, we are presented with a gift of ricotta, tapenade, and basil crostini. Since Mozza offers a tantalizing array of cheeses at their Mozzarella Bar, I wasn't surprised that the ricotta was creamy, fresh exquisiteness. Next, there was charred, dare I say "meaty", Grilled Octopus complemented by a lemony celery & potato salad. Usually, celery is an undistinguished ingredient in soups or stuffing, but here the crisp, crunchy veggie is raised to a culinary level and I'm longing to recreate this refreshing salad on a sultry, summer day. In keeping with my "greens at every meal" mantra, Market Lettuces with Crostini Di Anatra followed. The crostini were slathered with a fatty, flavorful duck rillettes (Italian vocab lesson: Anatra = duck) and the greens were perked up with a shallot dressing. Moving on to the carb-ilicious part of the meal, we have Agnolotti bathed in Burro e Salvia (sage butter); these little, pillowy pasta pockets miraculously stuffed with 5 kinds of meat, including veal cheeks, pork, and mortadella, are a new contender for the title "Heart Attack on A Plate", the affectionate nickname for Pasta Alla Carbonara. Honestly, this was hands-down one of the best pasta dishes I've ever tasted, a "last meal before you die", orgasmic dish. Perhaps the Tagliatelle with Oxtail Ragu was overshadowed by the awesome agnolotti, but I found the ragu to be overwhelmingly salty and mediocre, though the thick ribbons of homemade tagliatelle were divine. In spite of our bursting bellies, we couldn't resist the Bombolini, fresh doughnuts piled atop huckleberry compote, served with vanilla gelato nestled in lemon curd. The marriage of fried, tangy, sweet and creamy was a flawless finish to our magnifico meal. Throughout the meal, I savored glasses of Suavia Soave Classico 07, a medium-bodied, lemony, mineral-y white wine that complemented the hearty meal beautifully.

When I moved to L.A., I complained about the lack of Italian restaurants, which I blamed on both the absence of a large, Italian community and the carb-heavy cuisine's lack of appeal to fitness-obsessed Angelenos. Thankfully, Osteria Mozza, and the equally yummy sister restaurants, Pizzeria Mozza and Mozza-to-Go (their takeout joint) are here to satisfy my Italian cravings. Mozza isn't cheap, especially if you are an eater like myself, but it's worth the splurge. Deal Alert: A special menu is offered Sun.- Thurs nights at the Mozzarella Bar that includes a cheese, a pasta, a dessert, and a hefty glass of vino for only $35.