Farmhouse Fantasy

ABC Kitchen Flatiron 10 December 10
www.abchome.com
eat: Chicken Liver Toast, Crab Toast, Squash & Ricotta Toast, Waldorf Salad, Cauliflower Soup, Mushroom & Farm Egg Pizza, Sundae, Pumpkin Cake


ABC Carpet & Home has made its name selling shabby chic furniture and home goods. This rustic appeal comes with a luxurious price tag, so it is no surprise that the in-house restaurant, ABC Kitchen, is run by famed chef, Jean-Georges Vongrichten. His first foray into locavore cusine has found a fitting home in these country- fabulous surroundings. In true Jean-Georges style, ABC Kitchen showcases its sustainable style down to every last detail. The plates are handcrafted by a local artisan, the ingredients are locally sourced when possible, and the wine list features bio-dynamic and organic wines. In honor of the holidays, I was invited to lunch with Toni, my sister's mother-in-law and John, an old family friend.


As we enter ABC Kitchen one blustery afternoon, the lovely, zen space provides a welcome respite from the bustling street. The room exudes countrified charm á la Nancy Meyers; like her romantic comedies, this gorgeous, fairytale farmhouse is pure fantasy - no actual barn is this swanky. Wood accents abound, from the salvaged tables to the exposed wood beam ceiling. Nature is brought indoors: fresh-cut flowers are sprinkled in diminutive vases, white birch branches blossom from giant urns, and nature photographs decorate the walls. Old-timey bulbs cast a warm glow in the room. The waiter's uniforms--mismatched, slim-fit plaid shirts (think John Varvatos not John Deere) and stylish jeans--embrace the outdoor-couture vibe. Even the diners seem to have been selected from a casting director’s curated picks of naturally beautiful, stylish people. It's no wonder that our leisurely lunch became a three-hour tour...we didn't want to leave!



We begin with a trio of crostinis, which are available separately, though we couldn’t chose just one of the tempting options. A rosy pink Chicken Liver Paté is sumptuously smooth yet packed with chunky, gamey flavor. A fried sage leaf garnish adds a touch of fall while the olive-oil bathed toast reminds me that one can never have too much fat





Next, a Roasted Kabocha Squash Toast With Fresh Ricotta and Apple-Cider Vinegar. This brilliant, Hermès-orange crostini actually beckons us from the neighboring table; without our fellow diners' savvy ordering, we would have missed out. The comforting combo of sautéed onions and squash paired with creamy cheese and bracing vinegar made me not miss meat.




With the Peekytoe Crab Toast, the mouthwatering crustacean is just-picked fresh. This is high-caliber crab showcased simply with a dollop of lemon aioli. Although the presentation is unfussy, my friend, Toni, reminds me of the painstaking labor involved with picking this much meat from the crab. "Just the knowledge of how much work went into this makes it taste better" she exclaims.



Curious to see Chef Kluger's take on this classic New York dish, we order the Grilled Chicken Waldorf Salad. Fresh greens arrive topped with a medley of textures and flavors: moist, chicken tenders,, crisp julienned apples, salty pistachios, crunchy slivers of fennel, and sweet raisins. Instead of the usual addition of heavy mayonnaise, a cider vinegar dressing keeps this light and healthy. Since my tastes tend towards stick-to-your-ribs food in the winter, I wouldn't order this salad as a stand-alone dish, but it is a refreshing compliment to our other decadent dishes.


Upon John's suggestion, who had adored a carrot soup during a previous visit, we shared the Cauliflower Soup, Rye Croutons, and Rupert Cheese. If, like me, you are crazy about this cruciferous veg, this sublime soup is for you. Each slurp is packed with intense, creamy cauliflower oomph. The croutons are naughtily drenched with olive-oil and add delicious crunch. The Rupert, an aged, raw cow's milk cheese from Vermont's Bardwell Farms, is a nod to the oozy comfort of melted Gruyère traditionally found in French Onion soup.



Mushroom and Farm Egg Pizza This gussied-up white pizza features creamy ricotta, tangy parmesan, woodsy morel mushrooms, and a sunny-side-up fried egg, who's bright yellow yolk adds necessary moisture to an otherwise dry pie. I dig the light and airy whole-wheat crust, which is charred to a perfect crisp.





The sizable sundae, a destination-worthy knockout, is a welcome respite from frou-frou desserts. The winning combo is a four-part harmony of salty, sweet, chocolaty, and crunchy: Salted Caramel ice cream--the über-trendy flavor which has yet to bore me--, Caramel Popcorn, Candied Peanuts, bitter, rich chocolate sauce and a quenelle of luscious whipped cream. To illustrate this sundae's greatness, though Toni said she just had room for one bite, she almost polished it off (with my help, of course!)



Pumpkin Cake with Maple-Buttercream Frosting and Pistachios My relationship with maple is tenuous; I adore the autumnal-flavor, yet loathe the stickiness of syrup. Here, I happily get my maple fix --in a heavenly, buttery, not-too-sweet icing--which pairs perfectly with a moist, firm pumpkin cake.




After such a pleasurable lunch, I can see why ABC Kitchen has topped so many "Best Of" lists in NYC. It has heightened the locavore movement to a whole new level, all while maintaining delicious, unfussy food. Sure, you can enjoy fresh-picked produce at the farmer's market or in the comforts of your own home, but if you're looking for a treat, this place is for you.

An Apple a Day

Northern Spy Food Co. East Village 13 November 10
www.northernspyfoodco.com
eat: Housemade Granola and Yogurt, Kale Salad, Corned Beef Hash, Biscuits
sip: Strongtree Coffee


My apple fetish began with an October road trip upstate. Surrounded by stunning fall foliage, I munched apple donuts, sipped hot cider, and chomped on freshly-picked apples. Back in the city, I baked comforting crumbles weekly. Even my Halloween costume - a leafy homage to autumn - was inspired by apples. When New York Magazine published Beyond Delicious, a visual apple-ography of Greenmarket offerings, it was exciting as the September Issue of Vogue. As I scanned the myriad of heirloom apple varieties, one name caught my eye, Northern Spy, both for the mouth-watering description and also because it had a familiar ring to it. Where did I know it from? Then I remembered that East Village restaurant that kept catching my eye: Northern Spy Food Co.


Named after the aforementioned New York apple, Northern Spy Food Co. is a welcoming, neighborhood restaurant that focuses on local, seasonal fare. Last weekend, I dropped by for brunch with my amigas. It is an adorable joint that brims with homey cuteness - vintage wallpaper, Robin Egg blue benches, even an apple-scented bathroom air freshener - without being too precious. Their sustainability credo extends beyond the food; most of the interior design stems from salvaged materials, including the wooden dining tables made from bowling alley lanes. We are seated in a cozy nook (pictured above) who's diminutive size is well-suited for sharing and gossip.



Our brunch begins with warm, house-made biscuits and pear jam. Normally, I'm such a butter-junkie that I tend to spread it on any breakfast pastry, but these golden biscuits taste as if a pat of butter went into each bite. The accompanying pear jam is just-plucked-from-the-tree fresh. Dare I be so bold in saying these are the best biscuits I've had in NYC so far....




Housemade Granola and Yogurt The whole-milk, organic yogurt is European-style, aka runny, which is a welcome change from the popular, dense Greek version . Sweetened with honey, the toasted granola brims with pecans, oats, and cinnamon-y goodness. If the granola was served atop ice cream, it would be dessert, but yogurt lets it sneak into the "breakfast" category.






Corned Beef Hash The ubiquitous brunch dish is a standout here. No dry, canned cubed beef of lore, but hefty chunks of brined Heritage Beef Brisket. The meat is so juicy that a pool of beefy gravy bastes the confit potatoes and perfectly poached, Feather Ridge Farm eggs.




Kale Salad We round out our meal with a seasonal salad: a mountain of frazzled kale, ribbons of clothbound cheddar, chunks of delicata squash, and crunchy almonds. Kudos to the chef for this preparation. By shredding the kale, this hardy roughage is less overbearing and mixes well with the other ingredients Per our waitress' suggestion, we order two baked eggs atop the salad. Their runny yolks make an egg-y dressing creating a Caesar salad-brunch style. Looks like I'm not the only fan - the recipe was just posted in NY Magazine.


In addition to the food, Northern Spy Food Co. has other benefits that make for an enjoyable brunch . The Strongtree Coffee is tasty and mirrors the local/organic vibe of the foodstuffs. There were wooden benches outside to help make the brunch wait bearable, and once inside, we ate at a leisurely pace without ever feeling rushed. If I lived in the neighborhood, I could see myself frequenting Northern Spy Food Co. often. It is high-quality, low-cost grub served in a friendly environment. Like it's mascot, it is the kind of place you should have once a day.

Sublime on the Sunset Strip

Bar Marmont West Hollywood 15 May 10
www.chateaumarmont.com/barmarmont.php
eat: Smoked Trout, Crème Fraîche, and Potato, Gougères, Fava Bean Bruschetta, Burrata & Grilled Artichoke Board, Hanger Steak & Spinach Salad, Sheep Milk Ricotta Gnocchi, Caesar Salad with Grilled Sardines
sip: Brass Flower, Añejo Old-Fashioned, Peach Bellini


Last weekend, I had a mini-staycation at the Hotel Andaz with my friends for their belated birthday celebration. Although staycations originated from the need for a cheaper alternative to expensive travel, I have discovered that bunking in town has many benefits - you avoid the frustrating hell of airline travel, you can take a break from driving (this is especially necessary in LA) and you have the opportunity to explore unfamiliar neighborhoods you might have overlooked For example, our hotel, which we chose for it's fabulous rooftop pool, was located on the crowded and cheesy Sunset Strip, an area which I avidly avoid. The restaurant options within walking distance on the Strip are limited, unless your dining dreams include a mechanical bull, pricey hotel establishments, or the euro-trash mecca of Sunset Plaza. Indeed, we could have cabbed it elsewhere, but I relished the challenge of discovering a local gem. Ultimately, we ended up at an old place, Bar Marmont, that has been reinvented as a foodie destination.


When I first moved to LA, Bar Marmont was a place for boozing and schmoozing; it was the kind of place frequented by beautiful people who's idea of dinner was a cigarette and a cocktail. However, their culinary caliber increased in 2007 when Carolynn Spence, the chef de cuisine from NYC's popular gastropub, The Spotted Pig, came to helm the kitchen and now it excels as both a bar and restaurant. Inside, the room reeks of sexy; vintage light bulbs and lanterns set the mood. The French/Indochine decor features tile floors, smoky mirrors, and whimsical butterflies floating from the ceiling. We sample from the well-curated cocktail menu, which offers some tasty twists on old classics. First, a gorgeous, rose-hued Añejo Old-Fashioned (pictured right) who's girlie color suggests fruity and sweet, yet instead it packs quite a punch. This is a drink for those who like the taste of tequila rather than have it masked by a margarita’s salt and lime. The Brass Flower, an icy and refreshing take on a French 75, is an elegant concoction of St. Germain, Gin, Champane, and Grapfruit juice. A Peach Bellini bursts with first-of-the-summer peaches. Moving on to dinner, our friendly waitress, Abby, is a knowledgeable guide who helps us navigate through the menu which bursts with seasonal temptations.


Smoked Trout, Crème Fraiche, Potato Chunks of buttery trout top a hollowed-out potato with capers inside. A dollop of tangy, crème fraiche, a sprinkle of chives, and a dusting of paprika complete this delectable dish . The smoked trout is a welcome change from the standard smoked fish, salmon. It’s less oily and overpowering; I’m inspired to make this for my next brunch.



Gougères These surprisingly light, fluffy cheese puffs are France's interpretation of Brazil's addictive Pan de Quejo. I used to dine at Red Lobster (the Shrimp Shrimp and More Shrimp was my guilty pleasure) where each meal would begin with a piping hot basket of cheddar & onion biscuits. These gougères are the grown-up, culinary version and remind me that every meal should begin with cheesy bread.





Fava Bean Bruschetta Springtime’s bean of the moment taste best when they are served in unadulterated glory. Here, a hint of olive oil and salty pecorino highlight the bright, green beauties. Since cooking favas is insanely labor-intensive, I'm happy to let the pros do the work and always order them in restaurants.





Burrata and Grilled Artichoke Board I would return to Bar Marmont just for the sake of sampling this wooden plank of pleasures. I can’t get enough of burrata, the gooey, creamy, buffalo mozzarella that has been a welcome trend in the dining world. This is a multisensory affection; I love how it glistens, how it stretches like taffy, and how it brims with full fat flavor. I have nibbled numerous artichoke leaves to get to the holy grail of the heart, but here, the heart is grilled solo. There is an intensity and meatyness similar to a grilled Portobello mushroom. Slices of yellow heirloom tomatoes and earthy Lucques olives add to the mix. I’m not shy with my bread consumption, yet somehow grilling bread makes it even more irresistible.



Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with Squash Blossoms and Parmesan Thanks to the ricotta, these gnocchi are pillowy and light rather than stick-to-your-belly starchy. Bathed in a creamy, buttery sauce with basil puree and parmesan, this dish is pure comfort. Another springtime fave, squash blossoms, top the pasta, providing both a burst of color and zing to the plate.



Grilled Hangar Steak with Spinach Salad As a bona fide omnivore, who has equal love for animal protein and produce, I adore a dish that fulfills both of these food groups. Case in point: this deconstructed steak salad. On one side, lies a tender, perfectly cooked (charred on outside, pink in the middle) hanger steak. On the other, the salad, with pickled beets, slivers of crispy garlic, smoky blue cheese, and roasted red peppers would be wonderful solo, but it is the perfect side to the accompanying steak.



Ceasar Salad with Grilled Sardines Everyone has their own take on what makes a Ceasar good; some like theirs stinking with garlic, some like theirs drenched in dressing. As a true Libra, who’s always searching for balance, I prefer mine to be a harmonious blend where the ingredients work together rather than have one overpower the rest. The sardines - hearty, fresh ones not the oily, puny versions in a tin - and the fried capers are briny-licious.

After this filling feast, we were thankful for our digestive walk back to the hotel. It reminded me of one of my favorite Italian traditions, the passeggiata, but rather than strolling through piazzas, we trudged along the teeming sidewalks of the Strip. However, rather than sneer at the Saturday-night revelers, we smiled knowing that we had found a diamond in the rough. We would return to Bar Marmont for drinks and apps, for a romantic date, for their Sunday Night Fried Chicken Dinner, for unpretentious, fresh fare.

FYI, the valet is insanely expensive, so try to find parking elsewhere.

A Diamond In The Forest

The Mountain Idyllwild, CA 11.March.10
www.themountainrestaurant.com
eat: 10-hour Slow Cooked Short Ribs, Roasted Garlic Sautéed Kale, Banana Walnut Cake

My interest in food began as a byproduct of my love for travel. Each place I visited was memorialized by taste: thick dollops of clotted cream in Oxford, greasy, cheesy poutine in Montreal, that transcendent, ruby red tomato in Firenze that put the pale, supermarket versions to shame. Nowadays, when I head out of town, I endlessly forage the internet, an abundant and time-sucking resource, researching for restaurants that embody the essence of place. Although I enjoy these culinary quests, I sometimes relish a respite from my planning persona and head out of town without an itinerary. In spite of the wealth of information found online, local flavors are often best discovered with an old-fashioned approach, whether it's chatting up a native for their favorite haunts or by simply letting spontaneity lead the way.

Last week, I stumbled upon Idyllwild, a rustic, artsy town nestled in the San Jacinto Mountains between L.A. and Palm Springs. I had heard such disparate reviews about Idyllwild - some raved about the mountainous beauty, others lamented the lack of things to do - that I was eager to form my own opinion about the place. After spending three days in there, I can wholeheartedly say I'm hooked. It's a tranquil town that embodies all the traits of a stereotypical, mountain enclave - the air is woodsy & fresh, log-cabin cuteness abounds, and there is a dated quality, as if time stopped in Idyllwild forty years ago - plus, there are also a plethora of galleries and artisans. Indeed, this is a sleepy town, especially without crowd-attracting lakes and snow sports, but it is the quiet that makes it, well, idyllic.


When I arrive at the Fireside Inn, my charming, yet faded motel, I ask the front desk clerk for a restaurant recommendation. Her answer, which is wholeheartedly echoed by everyone I query, is Aroma Cafe. Aroma Cafe is the social nucleus of Idyllwild: it's an all-day restaurant, a coffee shop, a live-music venue, a gathering spot, a bar, and a place to soak up the sun on the patio. Since this is the most-reviewed restaurant in town - most folks say it's the "only joint with decent food" - I won't dwell on the details, but highlights of my dinner are a tasty salad of Blood Oranges, Avocado, and Arugula, a hearty Shrimp, Jalepeno Pesto Pasta, and fluffy, freshly-baked bread dipped in garlicky olive oil. All in all, the food is good, but it is definitely enhanced by the convivial hum and pleasant waitstaff that warm the place.


At my motel the following day, a sleek, modern postcard catches my eye. The Mountain advertises "Slow Food inspired", "Le Cordon Bleu graduate", "food made from scratch", "ingredients prepared with passion". I am surprised that such a gourmet place could exist here and am excited about the possibility that Idyllwild might be more than a one-restaurant town. When I arrive at Mountain, I am greeted by Courtney, the delightful, talkative co-owner. Considering it is an off-season Thursday night, the place is nearly empty (a factor that can sometimes add awkwardness to a meal), yet in this case, I am able to chat with Courtney about the inception and running of the restaurant. Since I'm unabashedly inquisitive and harbor a restaurant-owning fantasy, I am overjoyed to converse with her throughout my meal. The decor is homey - wood-beamed rafters, pine cones along the walls, butcher-paper tablecloths - and behind the bar, a gorgeous mural of the native Manzanita tree, painted by local artist, Darwin, honors Idyllwild's artistic roots.


With a nod to his haute-cuisine past, Chef Brian Ayers begins each meal with an amuse-bouche; tonight's is a palate-cleansing Salmon Mouse with Roasted Red Pepper and Garlic Toast. Ordering is a challenge because the menu mirrors a list of my favorite foods (house-made pate, brown-butter sage gnocchi, Coq au Vin, sweetbreads). Due to a lingering cold, and my waiter's enthusiastic advice, I opt for the comforting 10-Hour Slow Cooked Short Ribs braised in Merlot.Reminiscent of Boeuf Bourguignon, the tender, melt-in-your-mouth meat is served with sweet Vidalia onions, Crimini mushrooms, and garlic confit atop a mound of luscious mashed potatoes. For my greens fix, I get a side of the Roasted Garlic Sautéed Kale. Since the dining room is small, I can overhear the interactions of my fellow diners with the waiter. The service is exceptional; each order can be pleasantly personalized (whether putting sauce on the side or serving a half-portion of an entree) in order to fulfill one's dining desires. Also, each diner gushes effusively each time a dish appears, an unabashed compliment to the chef.


I finish with a moist Banana Walnut and Crème Fraiche Cake. Chef Ayers classical training is further reflected in his elegant presentation; here a simple cake is dressed up with a quenelle of cream cheese frosting and a dusting of cinnamon. The pièce de résistance is a mini-carrot cake that accompanies my check; nice touch to soften the blow of the bill, no?



The beauty of The Mountain is that it perfectly combines the rustic, laid-back, simplicity of Idyllwild with 5-star flair. It would be jarringly offensive if the decor was fancy, the menu was high-falutin', and the prices were exorbitant; the locals would never allow it. Instead, there is such a harmonious balance between city and country that the Mountain feels organic, like it could only have sprouted here in Idyllwild. Sure, I wish that the Mountain was in L.A. so that I could savor the fine fare often, but part of me loves that it's a destination, an inspiration for a romantic weekend, a fancy pit-stop en route to the desert, or a reason to jump in the car and leave life behind.

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Reservoir Silver Lake 03 March 10
www.silverlakereservoir.com
eat: Roasted Beets, Spicy Mussels, Mahi-Mahi, Farro Salad, Purple Yams, Ice Cream
sip: "The Prisoner" Napa 2008

Last Saturday, my friend, Shanna, and I spontaneously decided to dine at Reservoir, a cozy, neighborhood spot in Silver Lake. Soaked from sheets of rain (yes, it DOES rain in LA), we entered the tiny space to find the chef, Gloria Felix, at the hostess stand. At first, I didn’t know who she was, but once I spotted her chef whites, I deduced, from my many years of costuming and eating out, that she must be the big cheese. This may sound ironic, but I love it when a chef steps out of the kitchen. Whether it’s Chrisophe Émé (Ortolan) describing his famous caviar egg dish table-side or Mark Gold (Eva) hopping between tables to greet guests, I find that a visible chef adds a welcome intimacy and individuality to the dining experience. It’s comfortable too - like suddenly the restaurant has been revamped as a relaxed dinner party amongst familiar family and friends. At Reservoir, the familial nature continues that night as I realize that I know both waiters personally, an added bonus to any meal.

Inside, the snug space is aesthetically pleasing; the copper bar glows warmly under soft lighting and the ceiling, made from thin planks of recycled redwood, creates a cozy, nautical vibe. Since it's a blustery, winter night, I whet my whistle with a glass of "The Prisoner", a bold, lusty blend of reds including Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. This Napa Valley gem is an old favorite of mine thanks to it's gorgeous ruby hue, it's luscious mouth-feel, and it's "big fruit" character that is thankfully void of jammy-ness.

We begin with a refreshing salad of Roasted Beets, Fried Goat Cheese, Hazelnuts, and Fresh Greens-the greens are a lovely surprise considering most beet salads are served sans greens, which leaves me craving lettuce the rest of the meal.




Following our waiter, Damien's, advice, we opt for Spicy Mussels with Grilled Ciabatta Bread. The mussels are plump, juicy, and clean while the saffron broth bursts with red-pepper flake heat. After soaking up all our bread in the liquid deliciousness, we seriously contemplate risking our dignity and drinking the rest of the broth from the bowl.
With frites and a green salad, this would be a marvelous meal on it's own.


Reservoir encourages the diner to be a culinary curator by giving you a choice of side (they call them setups) to be served with their main courses. We select the Farro, Currant, Broccoli Rabe, and Pine Nut Salad to accompany our Mahi Mahi with Red Curry Sauce. The salad, a who’s who of my favorite ingredients, is nutty and complex while the fish is perfectly cooked - crispy on the outside and tender and buttery inside. I rarely choose fish at restaurants, since I tend to cook it-and not the red meat I usually order-at home, but I will rethink my ordering approach after tasting this sublime fish.


We finish our savory meal with transcendent Roasted Purple Yams with Chives and Crème Fraiche. They arrive resembling prehistoric dinosaur eggs that had just hatched a vivid, violet filling. Run, don’t walk, to your nearest farmer’s market to scoop up these awesome tubers. When roasted, the crunchy skins are caramelized to a buttery crisp and the inside is dark, rich, and moist like a dense chocolate cake.


Though we were stuffed to the gills, we couldn’t resist the homemade ice cream - a trio of sesame, vanilla, and chocolate. The bitter, decadent chocolate won hands down; the sesame did live up to it’s name, yet we prefer it in seed form, and the vanilla was decent, but had a flavor that seemed oddly synthetic, like a vanilla-flavored vodka.

When Chef Gloria catches me photographing her food, she cheerfully agrees to pose for a picture, a proud artisan flaunting her edible craft. Then, as if we were old pals catching up, we chat about her culinary past and her excitement about Reservoir's one-year anniversary. Her enthusiasm is not only infectious - it infuses the food with delicious love. After training at such beloved L.A. establishments like Lucques, Grace, and A.O.C., it should come as no surprise that Gloria shines with her own spin on "Seasonal Rustic" cuisine.

Deal Alert: Happy Hour menu from 5-7pm includes $7-$12 dishes like Truffled Mac n' Cheese, Mahi Mahi Fish n' Chips, and a Burger as well as $4 beers and $5 glasses of wine.