Cure for the Common Meal

Salt's Cure West Hollywood Spring '11
www.saltscure.com
eat: Charcuterie & Pickles, Braised Pork Shoulder, Veal Burger, Yellowtail, Mussels, Blackberry Crumble, Bread Pudding, Homemade Ice Cream
sip: North Coast Coturri Rosé 2009, Alesmith IPA


When I spied the "I Love Bacon" paperweight, I knew I had come to the right place. This porcine valentine sits atop the kitchen/bar counter at Salt's Cure, a delicious, down-to-earth spot in Weho. As one would expect from a restaurant/butcher shop, the air is perfumed with roasted, smoked, and braised meat. The small chalkboard menu changes daily due to the fact that the food is admirably sourced from Californian farms. Inside, the sparse space forgoes fancy decor. Instead, the open kitchen, exposed brick wall, flickering candles, and hum of happy diners create a simple backdrop where the focus is on the food. Forget the Food Network and grab a seat at the kitchen bar, where the chef duo, Chris Phelps and Zak Walters, cook right beneath your nose.



The well-curated wine and beer list keeps up with the Cali-centric theme. We are wowed by the North Coast Coturri Rosé 2009, a gorgeous, ruby-red rosé. Made from Merlot, an uncommon rosé grape, this medium-bodied quaff is ripe with currants and proves that pink wines aren't just pretty to look at. San Diego's Alesmith IPA is a refreshing mix of bitter hops and sweet malt. As the back of the bottle rightly boasts, "It's Pretty Awesome".





Start off with a house-made Charcuterie Plate featuring a rotating array of cured meat morsels. Skinny, beet-red strips of duck prosciutto is a tasty twist on this buxom bird. Potted rabbit is packed with lardo-like fat, while thinly sliced, smoked pork shoulder is delicate, yet intense. The unique, in-house pickles, like black radishes and cherries, are delightfully original. A whimsical pretzel roll--imagine a doughy bun sprouting a crisp, pretzel appendage--and grainy mustard round out the plate.





Braised Pork Shoulder is melt-in-your-mouth good. Served with it's succulent juices, creamy grits, and a healthy handful of cilantro, this is southern comfort.







A juicy, Veal Burger topped with veal bacon proves you can't have too much of a good thing. Held together by a tasty, and squishy, poppy seed bun, it's a charred, smoky, meaty masterpiece. There's such a fight for the Belgian-style fries that we consider ordering a second round.





It's not just meat at Salt's Cure. After honing their skills at fish-centric Hungry Cat, these chefs know their way around the ocean. Yellowtail is served raw with green olives, shallots, dill, and drizzled olive oil--it's sashimi, American-style.








Plump mussels are bathed in a beer broth - the IPA adding a yeasty heft to the shellfish--as well as a delicious dunk for buttery, garlic bread)






Seasonal sides are plucked-from-the-fields fresh. A dish of Roasted Corn, thyme, butter, and aged goat cheese is farm fabulous. Our waitress earns mad points when, upon discovering the corn was sold out, she convinces the kitchen to scrape together a mini-version for our table.





The dessert choices are so tempting that we each gluttonously order our own. Normally, I shy away from liquorous desserts, but in the Whiskey Brioche Bread Pudding, the booze blends wonderfully with the butter. As we swirl the bread in luscious crème anglaise, my friend, Hollis, exclaims how good this would be for breakfast. I second that emotion.



Blackberry Crumble is a steaming bowl of summer. When warmed, the tart berries are mellowed to sweet goodness. With chunks of buttery pastry and vanilla ice cream, it's pure yum. Other homemade ice cream flavors include a lovely Lavender Shortbread, a delicate Wildflower Honey, and a bracing Fresh Mint Chocolate Chip.



Eating at Salt's Cure feels like a meal at an old friend's house, albeit one who is a damn fine chef. Here, the staff is so amicable that the lines between waiter/customer are blurred. It's a convivial, casual dinner party, where the menu and guest list change daily, but the deliciousness remains the same.

Farmhouse Fantasy

ABC Kitchen Flatiron 10 December 10
www.abchome.com
eat: Chicken Liver Toast, Crab Toast, Squash & Ricotta Toast, Waldorf Salad, Cauliflower Soup, Mushroom & Farm Egg Pizza, Sundae, Pumpkin Cake


ABC Carpet & Home has made its name selling shabby chic furniture and home goods. This rustic appeal comes with a luxurious price tag, so it is no surprise that the in-house restaurant, ABC Kitchen, is run by famed chef, Jean-Georges Vongrichten. His first foray into locavore cusine has found a fitting home in these country- fabulous surroundings. In true Jean-Georges style, ABC Kitchen showcases its sustainable style down to every last detail. The plates are handcrafted by a local artisan, the ingredients are locally sourced when possible, and the wine list features bio-dynamic and organic wines. In honor of the holidays, I was invited to lunch with Toni, my sister's mother-in-law and John, an old family friend.


As we enter ABC Kitchen one blustery afternoon, the lovely, zen space provides a welcome respite from the bustling street. The room exudes countrified charm á la Nancy Meyers; like her romantic comedies, this gorgeous, fairytale farmhouse is pure fantasy - no actual barn is this swanky. Wood accents abound, from the salvaged tables to the exposed wood beam ceiling. Nature is brought indoors: fresh-cut flowers are sprinkled in diminutive vases, white birch branches blossom from giant urns, and nature photographs decorate the walls. Old-timey bulbs cast a warm glow in the room. The waiter's uniforms--mismatched, slim-fit plaid shirts (think John Varvatos not John Deere) and stylish jeans--embrace the outdoor-couture vibe. Even the diners seem to have been selected from a casting director’s curated picks of naturally beautiful, stylish people. It's no wonder that our leisurely lunch became a three-hour tour...we didn't want to leave!



We begin with a trio of crostinis, which are available separately, though we couldn’t chose just one of the tempting options. A rosy pink Chicken Liver Paté is sumptuously smooth yet packed with chunky, gamey flavor. A fried sage leaf garnish adds a touch of fall while the olive-oil bathed toast reminds me that one can never have too much fat





Next, a Roasted Kabocha Squash Toast With Fresh Ricotta and Apple-Cider Vinegar. This brilliant, Hermès-orange crostini actually beckons us from the neighboring table; without our fellow diners' savvy ordering, we would have missed out. The comforting combo of sautéed onions and squash paired with creamy cheese and bracing vinegar made me not miss meat.




With the Peekytoe Crab Toast, the mouthwatering crustacean is just-picked fresh. This is high-caliber crab showcased simply with a dollop of lemon aioli. Although the presentation is unfussy, my friend, Toni, reminds me of the painstaking labor involved with picking this much meat from the crab. "Just the knowledge of how much work went into this makes it taste better" she exclaims.



Curious to see Chef Kluger's take on this classic New York dish, we order the Grilled Chicken Waldorf Salad. Fresh greens arrive topped with a medley of textures and flavors: moist, chicken tenders,, crisp julienned apples, salty pistachios, crunchy slivers of fennel, and sweet raisins. Instead of the usual addition of heavy mayonnaise, a cider vinegar dressing keeps this light and healthy. Since my tastes tend towards stick-to-your-ribs food in the winter, I wouldn't order this salad as a stand-alone dish, but it is a refreshing compliment to our other decadent dishes.


Upon John's suggestion, who had adored a carrot soup during a previous visit, we shared the Cauliflower Soup, Rye Croutons, and Rupert Cheese. If, like me, you are crazy about this cruciferous veg, this sublime soup is for you. Each slurp is packed with intense, creamy cauliflower oomph. The croutons are naughtily drenched with olive-oil and add delicious crunch. The Rupert, an aged, raw cow's milk cheese from Vermont's Bardwell Farms, is a nod to the oozy comfort of melted Gruyère traditionally found in French Onion soup.



Mushroom and Farm Egg Pizza This gussied-up white pizza features creamy ricotta, tangy parmesan, woodsy morel mushrooms, and a sunny-side-up fried egg, who's bright yellow yolk adds necessary moisture to an otherwise dry pie. I dig the light and airy whole-wheat crust, which is charred to a perfect crisp.





The sizable sundae, a destination-worthy knockout, is a welcome respite from frou-frou desserts. The winning combo is a four-part harmony of salty, sweet, chocolaty, and crunchy: Salted Caramel ice cream--the über-trendy flavor which has yet to bore me--, Caramel Popcorn, Candied Peanuts, bitter, rich chocolate sauce and a quenelle of luscious whipped cream. To illustrate this sundae's greatness, though Toni said she just had room for one bite, she almost polished it off (with my help, of course!)



Pumpkin Cake with Maple-Buttercream Frosting and Pistachios My relationship with maple is tenuous; I adore the autumnal-flavor, yet loathe the stickiness of syrup. Here, I happily get my maple fix --in a heavenly, buttery, not-too-sweet icing--which pairs perfectly with a moist, firm pumpkin cake.




After such a pleasurable lunch, I can see why ABC Kitchen has topped so many "Best Of" lists in NYC. It has heightened the locavore movement to a whole new level, all while maintaining delicious, unfussy food. Sure, you can enjoy fresh-picked produce at the farmer's market or in the comforts of your own home, but if you're looking for a treat, this place is for you.